North Sister, what a wonderful climb when its snow or ice covered. For this reason and because of a long access, my climbing window for this mountain is very small and my guiding window is even smaller…..just ask any of my climbers that have tried to climb this with me :( Seems we have to cancel the trip all too often.

This is a two day trip, we hike to the base of the Villard glacier and set up camp.  The climb starts early the next morning and seeks a line through the snow on the right

Starting off at Pole Creek trailhead

A closer look near camp

A few point release slides tell us that its warm up there and that the snow pack is saturated.  We are hoping for a cold, clear night to complete the melt / freeze cycle.

Looking North, during a cold alpine start to the day

Sunrise but as the sun comes up, we will be moving into the shadow of the West Face

Climbing under great conditions

The upper North Ridge, I wish there was more snow but the prospects of water ice in the gullies is good

Looking across the East Face

Glisan Tower

Bob on the first traverse

View of the west side looking at Middle Sister

Glisan and Prouty towers, North and South summits

Looking North, the trail is some sections has melted out

High West Face traverse, the sun is starting to reach the saddle, that is where we will find the sun.

Prouty tower, South Summit

Climbing on the West face towards the saddle

Standing at the col between North and South summit, the East entrance to the South (Prouty) summit is out of condition

Bob at the saddle

South and Middle Sister in the background

Bob on the summit

My turn for a photo op

 

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