Posts from the ‘Oregon Mountains’ Category

Mt Hood Summit

As if you needed another reason to c;limb Mt Hood, here are a few more. I always tell folks that Mt Hood is my favorite summit. Its incredible, climbing from above the Queens Chair, you traverse North to South along the Eastern Rim. It feels epic, it is epic.

Summit view looking north as sunrise and the sun make the perfect mountain shadow

Looking South, the cloud patterns hint at the windplay at play

Climbers approaching the summit

The Eastern Rim can sometimes make for an airy exit onto the summit



North Sister

North Sister, what a wonderful climb when its snow or ice covered. For this reason and because of a long access, my climbing window for this mountain is very small and my guiding window is even smaller…..just ask any of my climbers that have tried to climb this with me 😦 Seems we have to cancel the trip all too often.

This is a two day trip, we hike to the base of the Villard glacier and set up camp.  The climb starts early the next morning and seeks a line through the snow on the right

Starting off at Pole Creek trailhead

A closer look near camp

A few point release slides tell us that its warm up there and that the snow pack is saturated.  We are hoping for a cold, clear night to complete the melt / freeze cycle.

Looking North, during a cold alpine start to the day

Sunrise but as the sun comes up, we will be moving into the shadow of the West Face

Climbing under great conditions

The upper North Ridge, I wish there was more snow but the prospects of water ice in the gullies is good

Looking across the East Face

Glisan Tower

Bob on the first traverse

View of the west side looking at Middle Sister

Glisan and Prouty towers, North and South summits

Looking North, the trail is some sections has melted out

High West Face traverse, the sun is starting to reach the saddle, that is where we will find the sun.

Prouty tower, South Summit

Climbing on the West face towards the saddle

Standing at the col between North and South summit, the East entrance to the South (Prouty) summit is out of condition

Bob at the saddle

South and Middle Sister in the background

Bob on the summit

My turn for a photo op


Mt Hood Pearly Gates L

Hmm Mt Hood, still my fav mountain, so many trips, so many wonderful times, its a challenge to pick some moments in the form of photos, but lets try, I have a feeling that this is one route that will get constant updates  🙂

The Pearly Gates, our climb traverses to the right before moving up thro the left chute

In the last few years the upper traverse from the Hogsback to the Chute has got steeper and longer

Heather and Ida

Where are the pickets? in this case the snow would not support their placement and would be an illusion of security, better to avoid that focus distraction for the climbers.

Looking up into the Left Chute, boot pen is at 8″, someone has been here before us

Second pitch

Climbing up towards the chute

Seeing the sun but we are still in the shadow and feeling the cold

Sometimes this chute can be closed with ice or can form a small 10ft WI3 step

What is on the other side of the chute, the exit near the summit.

Far below, some climbers gather on the Hogsback as Ida and Heather climb through the  exit moves

The view from the summit rim looking west

Looking SE at the finish to the Cooper Spur

Looking down the North Face to Cathedral Rock

Ida, Joe and Heather on the summit

Time to descend

Looking back at the summit along the North rim

Descending towards Crater Rock

A close up reveals the hot rock and the rising sulphur

Its always very rewarding to look back and marvel at what you have achieved



Mt Jefferson West Rib

The West Rib is a great route, the approach is snow free earlier then all the other routes and so can be climbed most of the year but especially after April.  Its a fun route and next time  will bring my skis

Great campsite at 7200ft

Looking back at the campsite so so far away 🙂

Heather and Lyle at a belay anchor

View of the summit tower, the crux

The camera making our summit feel much closer

Lyle loving the conditions

The Naja and the North Ridge, looking over to the JPG finish

Joe and Heather enjoying the view

Heather and Lyle enjoying a anchor stop, Pamelia Lake is a long way below us.

Same location without the zoom!!

Summit tower

The route to the top. getting close

Some exposure is simply incredible

This must not be the crux if I have time for a photo 🙂

A gigi, a harness and rope at the summit

Lyle, wishing he was nowhere else

Its good to see everyone still smiling at the crux

Summit shot

Time to write in the logbook that is kept in a small cannister screwed into the rock

View looking South

View looking North

View looking East

Time to leave the summit

Descending from summit

Having completed the rap from the summit

Another reason to start early is to avoid any afternoon thunderclouds that can develop. Mt Jefferson is at the crest between the coastal influence and the desert.

The summit is covered in clouds but we are down, good timming




Mt Hood Luetholds Couloir

This is a classic one day climb on the west side of the mountain. Its darker and colder on this side which of course can sometimes be a good thing. Its always a clear moment when the sun is rising in the east and is starting to rise over Wyeast and then we descend past Illumination Saddle into the darkness.

Inside the coouloir, taking a rest while I lead out.

View at the summit rim, looking down at the Southside at the climbers on the Hogsback

Summit rim traverse, always fun and makes you feel like you are somewhere in the Nepal

Mt Hood Sunshine

Somehow Dan and Jane and I got to talking and we deceided that climbing all 4 faces of Mt Hood would be a extremely good idea and so off we went.  This year we were challenged by weather and snow conditions but we managed to get out and get on the hill.

The view as we approach Cloud Cap

Getting ready to descend onto the Elliot glacier

I never tire of seeing this picture

Our house for the night

I really like the East side of Mt Hood, the sunrise is amazing

Vertical World, moving above the bergshrund

The Elliot headwall, if I ever take a client up there, we are off route, Chris on the other hand might like it

Looks steep because it looks fun….or is it the other way round

One of the few flat spots on the climb and its inside a crevasse

Jane and Dan have not moved but I have!!!

Dan reaching the Queen’s chair

Jane is close behind

Looking south to the summit, we are at 10,650ft

Looking back down on the Queens chair, we came up through the ridge on the right.

Summit Shot, its that “An Americas Cup” flag




Mt Jefferson JPG

One of the questions I get the most is “have you climbed Jefferson” It is the formidable peak looming over the central oregon cascades. Its truly a spectacular climb that usually takes three days. The crux of the climb can be at many different places, (that is a little usual for a mountain) and depends on the snow/ice conditions.


This view of Jefferson is the first sighting on the Whiteriver trail to camp. The Jeff Park Glacier JPG is in the foreground. Its July and so the melt out is underway and crevasses have opened up. The big question now is “can we get across the upper bergshrund” We will find out the next day.


Camp ing at 7200ft on the lower west morraine.

DSC00536David getting into the zone


Another early start, looking east, Mt Hood looms out of the darkness. I spend so much time on Mt Hood, its always a little strange to see another new day start and realize that I am not there


The morning light reveals the glaciers that we have crossed in the dark


Crossing the upper Jeff Park Glacier


The Mohler tooth is the prominent tower.


David waiting at the edge of the crevasse as I climb and make a belay anchor.


Upper Bergshrund, we find a snowbridge to the left and cross it. This is the major obstacle to the climb, though not the crux, it is the location that stops most climbers from summiting.


As daylight approaches, we look forward to the warming rays of sunshine


What the snow bridge looked like, very solid!!!

DSC00573David passes the snow bridge

DSC00578Looking up at the steep ridge traverse, plenty of air on the far side

DSC00579Looking north

DSC00581Sun casting the shadow of the mountain westwards.

DSC00594Airy but not scary, looking down on the  drainage

DSC00598David climbing back into the sunshine

DSC00600North/South Traverse

DSC00602Summit tower, our route follows the snow ramp to the left and then moves right.

DSC00614Looking back at where we come from, seems far away. We have climbed the entire ridge from left to right.

DSC00620Looking down the West Rib, David giving me a belay.

DSC00624Climbing higher, still just one axe needed.

DSC00628A little “water ice” brings out both tools and David watches me reach the summit.

DSC00630Summit shot, what a great day and a sweet climb!!!